I have two small children at home, a house which needs renovating, and many jobs which need my attention. So Sunday is kind of sacred; the one day of the week which I spend some quality time with my family. Today’s coverage of Olavsfestdagane therefore takes a markedly family feel, but not to worry there is loads for all ages at the festival!
The pick of the bunch has to be the jousting tournament, a popular event which includes mock sword fights, jousting, and all sorts of challenges on horse back. It happens in the shadow of the medieval Nidaros cathedral, on the ‘Outer King’s Court’, with horse poo on the floor and jesters running riot, giving it an authentic feeling. Great for kids, bad news for apples! Here is a selection of photos from the day – the event is repeats tomorrow (Monday) at 3pm, highly recommended.
The wooden swords, incidentally, are available from the historic market, for a really good price of 70 NOK, subsequent parental regret included. Cash only.
What are you planning to see and do with your family at Olavsfestdagene this week? We have our eyes (and ears) on Shama Shama (Tuesday, 12 midday, Ytre Kongsgård) and ‘Meg og Kammeraten Min’ (Wednesday 2pm and 3.30pm, same location).
Olavsfestdagene continued tonight with a moving and memorable concert by the American folk singer and activist Joan Baez, in the imposing Nidaros Cathedral.
This beautiful voice has been charming crowds and leading protest songs for over 50 years, and the woman behind it has led a colourful and involved life. She is often referred to in her capacity as Bob Dylan’s ex-lover and one time collaborator, but Baez embodies much more of the American folk scene than her relationship with its chief protagonist. Indeed her set tonight was steeped in the tradition of coffee shop musicians sharing (and sometimes stealing) one another’s songs. She covered a whole range of old and new, including Woody Guthrie, Pete Seeger, Anthony and the Johnsons, John Lennon…
Many of these songs never really had any owners anyway, a sentiment which suits Baez’s open heartedness and goodness in spirt. She spoke lovingly about the current refugees crisis and wove in some stories about her history in the protest movement. You would not believe she is 75, and when she played House of the Rising Sun, the years rolled back in the audience too.
Opportunities to take photos were pretty limited by the organisers, but here is a selection:
Last night I checked out Charta 77 at Byscenen, who have been playing for exactly as long as I have been alive. Reminded me of the Levellers, and a proper loyal following they brought with them too.
But to be honest I was there to see my mate’s band, Feet-Punk, who were supporting. These Kolvereid boys have been writing their own footnote on punk for nearly 15 years now, and I’ve been watching them for 11 of those. They’re infamous for their extremely short songs, which caused some consternation between me and the Byscenen security. Their policy is that you can only shoot for the first three songs, which is about a minute and half in Feet-Punk territory.
Anyway, you get what you get, and I also got some blurry shots backstage after, where we enjoyed a nice half cup of coffee, and shared 6 beers 😉
Last night’s Take 6 concert was moved to Vår Frue church, on account of the ongoing strikes at many of the hotels. But to be honest, we can’t think of a better location for this American acappella longstayers. Here are some shots from the experience – be sure to check whether what you are seeing tonight at jazzfest has been moved or not.
Personally I love the chance to see great music in unusual places – and the evening light creeping in through the church windows gave the whole concert a fresh feeling. So nice to go out without a jacket! Tonight, however, we recommend a concert at a classic venue, the home of jazz in Trondheim, Dokkhuset. Mats Eilertsen is one for all you jazz enthusiasts our there. The”‘Musicians’ musician” (7pm). He is accompanied by Trio Medieval, an ensemble from Voss who specialise in medieval and folk music. Trio Medieval will also be hosting a free workshop today, going on now!
There is a shedload going on this month; the start of an epic spring-summer for music in Trondheim. The wise man might be tempted to pace himself, but we never claimed to be wise. Instead we are readying ourselves for a week of world class music, night after night, with the return of Trondheim Jazzfest.
Trondheim’s very own international jazz festival has been around in one form or another since 1980 and now it’s back with a boom. The List spoke to Ernst Wiggo Sandbakk, Jazzfest’s general manager, with responsibility for the festival’s artistic content.
“Trondheim has a high international standing in the world of jazz, not least because of the success of Jazzlinja at NTNU (a programme which offers education in a creative jazz, started in 1979), which has delivered forerunners for new European jazz for decades.”
“We’re working on making Jazzfest an established destination, though we are quite different from other festivals in general. I think we have an excellent festival programme, because we have a large proportion of homegrown productions, as well as commissioned works and world premieres: collaborations playing together for the first time, etc.”
This year’s Jazzfest kicks off with what promises to be a spectacular performance with the three-time Grammy Award winning American jazz singer, Dee Dee Bridgewater, pictured above. Her glittering career has seen her share stages with greats such as Sonny Rollins, Dizzy Gillespie, Dexter Gordon and Max Roach, but tonight it will Trondheim’s leading professional big band, Knut Lauritzen Big Band, who have that honour. We think it will hold up, but you will have to be there to experience it for yourself. Olavshallen from 8pm, some tickets still available.
Alternatively – or additionally, if you choose to ignore the pacing yourself advice – check out Karl Bjorå’ Aperture at Bar Moskus at 10pm.
The List will blogging daily throughout the festival, with photos and reviews from the day before, and tips for the good times still ahead. Like our Facebook or follow this blog to stay up-to-date. You can also heck out the website jazzfest.no for programme information, tickets and details about the conference, consisting of seminars, workshops, “artist talks” and a panel discussion.
What song were you singing when you got home last night? That’s what we want to know. Blood blood blood, blood and fire… that’s what I’m saying. Hear me now!
“Shut up!” screams my wife. “It’s a Monday night!”
Great privilege to witness and shoot the mighty Lee Scratch Perry at Brukbar/Blæst last night. Probably the busiest we have ever seen the club, and let’s not forget … it was a Monday night.
The legendary Jamaican producer and pioneer, accompanied by longterm associate The Mad Professor, pulverised the crowd with his dub and reggae machine. There was a wait for the 80-year old upsetter to take the stage, and you have to forgive us non-believers for suspecting that he might never arrive, whilst Mad Prof laid down the remixes (or should I say RIMIXes?!).
But then a suitcase appeared, a bunch of bananas, a glass of champagne and the lights went up. So did the lighters, on several occasions, but not in a Michael Jackson sort of way. And then Perry, adorned with mirrors, shaman-like bangles and red beard dye, took to the stage.
It was a visceral and eccentric performance, and there is nothing like an old dude strutting his stuff and having the time of his life. It gives you hope, pure unadulterated hedonistic hope, hope of a life lived to the full and happy future. Perry had plenty to say too – mostly about how cigarettes give you cancer. Though that was about the extent of the family-friendly content. I’m pretty sure everyone shared a favourite moment during the concert, but I aint gonna write about that now. Let’s just say it was an “I was there when..” sort of thing.
Lee Scratch Perry is the creative effort which helped unleash Bob Marley on an unsuspecting world. A humble songwriter for the likes of Marley, Peter Tosh, Bunny Wailer and King Tubby, who has remained committed to experimenting with the musical form. In the 70s he started the infamous Black Art studios and collaborations with many of the greats followed – Max Romeo, The Congoes, the Abyssians , Delroy Wilson, The Heptones and even the Clash.
Perry later burnt down the Black Art Studios in ’84. Having witnessed last night I’d say it’s likely that many buildings he enters suffer similar fates. Blood blood blood, blood and fire… mercy lord!
The range of things to do in Trondheim is bigger than you would expect for a city of this size. With a population of 185,000, Trondheim is not a big city on a European scale. However, it is the third largest in Norway. The city was founded in 997 AD, and was called Nidaros until the Middle Ages. Trondheim was the capital of Norway from 1030 – 1217, and has played an important role in Norway’s history. If you are visiting Trondheim for a short time, or staying here long term and just want tips on what to do for the day, here are a few tips from the Tourist Information Office.
(photo above of Bryggene by Knut Aage Dahl)
Lademoen and Svartla’mon
Lademoen is a densely populated residential area east of the city centre. The buildings were originally workmen’s houses. Svartlamoen consists of old wooden buildings and is considered an ‘alternative’ area. This area is characterized by art, including a large outdoor wall painting by Håkon Bleken and Håkon Gullvåt, two of Norway’s best known artists (see our feature on Street Art, pages 24-27). Lademoen church is surrounded by a beautiful park, which is often frequented by the locals.
The Old Trondhjem Hospital founded in 1277 is the oldest social institution in Scandinavia. The surrounding area, Hospitalsløkkan, is characterized by old wooden houses and is mostly a residential area. Hospitalskirken (the hospital church) dates from 1705. It was Norway’s first octagonal wooden church.
The old alleys
The modern day street plan is the result of the Cicignon plan of 1681. Yet, some of the medieval streets – Veitene – survive as alleys snaking between the broad and straight main streets. Among the oldest alleys are Apotekerveita, St. Jørgensveita and Sommerveita. (See map page 62, start at Nidarosdomen: St. Jørgensveita runs between Bispegate and Erling Skakkes Gate).
Ilabekken the hidden road up to Bymarka
If you want a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, Bymarka is not far off. This huge nature reserve just west of the city centre is perfect for families, couples or lone hikers. Walk from the centre for about an hour passing by waterfalls and wooden stairways up to lake Theisendammen.
If you cross over the Old Town Bridge and through the “Portal of Joy”, you’ll arrive at Bakklandet. Known as Trondheim’s old town, Bakklandet’s street are lined with old, colourful and picturesque houses. Here you will find cafés, restaurants and local shops. You can also try the Trampe bicycle lift, the first one in the world of its kind.
Trondheim along the waterfront
If you are by bike, or by foot, the route downtown Trondheim is perfect for the whole family. If you start at Rockheim music museum at Brattøra you can enjoy the great view of the Trondheim Fjord, and Munkholmen Island. Continue to Skansen and Ila before heading down by the Nidelva and across to historic Bakklandet. There are great views of the old buildings, the Nidaros Cathedral and Kristiansten Fortress when you walk along the river.
If you want to feel the city life, you take a walk down the main pedestrian shopping street in Trondheim. Whether you want to shop, visit a café or listen to one of the many street musicians, this is the place to be. This is also the street you find the tourist information office.
This was a guest blog post by Monica Selnes, Tourist Info Manager at Visit Trondheim. For more inspirational tips and hidden gems pop in and see Monica and her team at Visit Trondheim’s visitor centre, Nordre gt 11. Trondheim. Tel: +47 73 80 76 60. visittrondheim.no
The List was at Kosmorama’s Kanonprisen last night, and let me tell you, it’s hard work writing this post right now. The big winner on the night was clearly the fjord wave disaster flick Bølgen, which picked up four awards, but the biggest loser was my head. It was a good party!
Family drama Louder than Bombs picked up two awards, including best script. Special recognition should go to ‘Den Tilfeldige Rockestjernen’, the documentary about Kaizers Orchestra which won the Kosmorama prize.
Also kudos to Kosmorama for putting on an amazing show. There were some incredible musical performances, including a wonderful cover of Bowie’s Life on Mars, by Gammelgrass. I’d definitely recommend next year’s award ceremony to anyone who is interested in cinema or music, though not if you have an early start on Friday morning!
The List was also happy to share the company of some of our samarbeid partners; Technoport, Teekay and NordØst. We ate at Mathallen beforehand, which was delicious as always. Hope you all enjoyed yourselves as much as we did.
Is this the best Kosmorama festival ever? It certainly feels like it, and we are just barely half way through. Our pick of today’s films is a classic. In collaboration with Meta.Morf 2016, Kosmorama delivers an exclusive screening of the 1968 sci-fi epic 2001: A Space Odyssey, by Stanley Kubric. And check this out, the photographic special effects advisor of the movie, inventor and director, Douglas Trumbell, will be there in person to introduce the movie! This is the guy who basically won Kubric the Best Visual Effects Oscar in ’69 – what an honour to have him here in Trondheim.
He will also be the keynote speaker at Meta-Morf’s conference tomorrow – check out the full programme here.
2001: A Space Odyssey, Friday 11 March, 20:20 Nova 2
Last night I took advantage of Kosmorama’s collaboration with Oppdal-based horror film festival, Ramaskrik, and caught a late viewing of The Devil’s Candy, by director Sean Byrne. The film was as lean as the lead actor, an Iggy Pop-esque Ethan Embry, and as slick as the paintings he creates in the barn of his family’s huge new Texas home.
It’s a story of new beginnings and opportunity, the American dream and to-cheap-to-be-true property. Astrid and and Jesse, and their teenage daughter Zooey, snap up a bargain when the previous owners are murdered by their deranged son. Set to a backdrop of heavy metal riffs and with a back story of death and incarceration; this is a move which has disaster written all over it.
The Devil’s Candy calls upon classic home invasion tactics and is horrific in large fistfuls. It threatens to disgust on several occasions and is certainly no nursery rhyme, but slightly misses the mark in my opinion. Clumsily edited at times and a slave to it’s own implausibility. The returning son’s offscreen misdemeanours require a suspension of belief I wasn’t quite prepared to make. He’s got a record as fat as his belly and a kids are going missing as he feed the devil his ‘candy’, hello 911? And there is a Shining-type transformation going on with the dad Jesse, which wasn’t fully realised. But hey, it was late, it was bloody, there was fire and the sound track is still reverberating around my skull this morning. Definitely one for genre fans – catch the next viewing Saturday 8pm, NOVA 3.
It also inspired me to check out some more of what Ramaskrik has to offer, so I chatted with Sølvi from the festival:
“The Devil’s Candy is one of the six films we have picked out for this year’s Ramaskrik at Kosmorama. These films are separate from our programme at Oppdal in the autumn, where we are showing another 20-25 films. Actually, Ramaskrik Oppdal was started by a few people working at Kosmorama at the time, back in 2011, in collaboration with the cinema manager in Oppdal. Some of us still work at both festivals, and we love getting the chance to show scary movies twice a year!”
At last year’s festival it wasn’t just the bears doing their business in the woods, as the film festival did a screening of Villmark 2 in the forrest, which was a huge scream-laden success! I asked Sølvi if they have any plans for similar themed screenings this year?
“When we come out of our long Easter sleep after Kosmorama, we will start thinking about this year’s Ramaskrik Oppdal, I am really looking forward to starting the research on new horror films from all over the world! And maybe some ideas will pop up about perfect Oppdal locations outside the cinema. If anyone has any great ideas about interesting and perhaps unusual locations, please get in touch.”
So we asked Sølvi for her tips for today and she picked out London Road, a documentary musical with Olivia Colman, about the murder of five prostitutes in Ipswich in 2006, directed by the guy behind Broken (the movie, not the crime!). This one has been highly recommended so make sure you get along early for today’s showing or book ahead for Saturday evening.
London Road, 2pm Thursday 10 March, NOVA 5.
Tonight we will be at the film festival’s annual awards show, Kanonprisen, to celebrate the best in norwegina cinema. Check out Jaya’s blog tomorrow!